Backwaters
Kottayam
A hill-and-lake district town nicknamed the "Land of Letters and Lakes," anchoring Kerala’s rubber plantation belt and much of its publishing industry. Kottayam sits between the Western Ghats and Vembanad Lake, its economy long built on rubber cultivation and, since the 19th-century arrival of Kerala’s first printing presses, on newspaper and book publishing. The district’s waterfalls at Illikkal Kallu and Aruvikkuzhi make for easy day trips, and Vagamon’s hill meadows lie within reach to the east.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Overview
Kottayam sits between the Western Ghats and Vembanad Lake, its economy long built on rubber cultivation and, since the 19th-century arrival of Kerala’s first printing presses, on newspaper and book publishing. The district’s waterfalls at Illikkal Kallu and Aruvikkuzhi make for easy day trips, and Vagamon’s hill meadows lie within reach to the east. Kottayam sits at an elevation of 26 m. The most favourable months to visit are January, December, February, and March, when conditions are best suited for sightseeing. Nearby points of interest include Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, Vaikom Mahadeva Temple, and Kottathavalam. Other notable highlights include kumarakom backwaters houseboat cruise at dawn, aruvikkuzhi Waterfall amidst rubber plantations, and st. Mary’s Church, Bharananganam, ancient murals.
Highlights
- Kumarakom backwaters houseboat cruise at dawn
- Aruvikkuzhi Waterfall amidst rubber plantations
- St. Mary’s Church, Bharananganam, ancient murals
- Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple’s Kerala-style architecture
- Poonjar Palace’s royal artifacts and carved ceilings
- Vembanad Lake birdwatching at Pathiramanal Island
Getting There
Things To Do
Cruise the Vembanad Lake on a traditional houseboat
Take a slow houseboat ride from Kottayam’s Kodimatha jetty into the backwaters, passing palm-fringed shores, paddy fields, and local village life. This is the best way to experience the region’s serene waterways and observe daily fishing and coir-making activities.
3 hours (or half-day)
Visit the D.H. Hill (Kottayam’s old printing heritage site)
Stop by the D.H. Hill junction area, where the first Malayalam printing press was established in 1821. A short walk reveals historic buildings, a small museum of printing artifacts (by appointment), and the legacy of Kottayam as the “Land of Letters.”
1 hour
Explore the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary
Located on the edge of Vembanad Lake, this sanctuary is a haven for migratory birds like Siberian cranes, herons, and kingfishers. Walk along the shaded trails or hire a small boat for a closer view of the birdlife and mangrove ecosystems.
2 to 3 hours
Attend a late-morning tea tasting at a local estate outlet
Visit a small tea and spice outlet near the Kottayam–Kumily road, where you can sample cardamom-infused tea and see how spices are graded. Many outlets offer a brief demonstration of traditional Kerala tea brewing, perfect for a relaxed break.
1 hour
Walk through the rubber plantations at Pala or Erattupetta
Kottayam is India’s rubber capital, and a guided walk through a working plantation near Pala lets you see latex tapping firsthand. You’ll learn about the history of rubber cultivation in Kerala and can buy raw rubber products from local cooperatives.
2 hours
Visit the ancient Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple
Explore this 500-year-old Shiva temple in the heart of Kottayam town, known for its Kerala-style architecture, intricate murals, and a large central pond. The temple’s calm atmosphere and evening rituals offer a deep cultural immersion.
1.5 hours
Travel Tips
Plan temple visits early morning to avoid heat and crowds
Kottayam’s temples like Thirunakkara Mahadeva and Ettumanoor are best visited before 9:00 AM when it’s cooler and less crowded. Wear comfortable slip-on footwear because you must remove shoes at the entrance, and carry socks for hot stone floors.
Use the slow-moving “Kottayam town walk” for sightseeing
Instead of rushing between churches and museums, take a guided walking tour of the old town with frequent rest stops at shaded benches or cafes. For seniors, keep each walking segment under 20 minutes and use an umbrella for sun protection.
Pre-book wheelchair-friendly houseboats for backwater tours
Most houseboats in Kottayam require climbing steep steps to board, so request a ground-level entry or a ramp when booking. Also reserve a boat with at least one accessible cabin and a Western-style toilet for comfort.
Book intercity transport through the hotel or a trusted local agent
For group travel, avoid hailing multiple autorickshaws; instead, hire one large van or a tempo traveller with a driver who knows the narrow roads. Confirm the fare includes waiting time at each stop, and always agree on the total price before starting the journey.
Carry a physical copy of your itinerary and hotel contact
Mobile networks can be patchy on the backwaters and in rural areas, so keep a printed card with your hotel name, phone number, and the driver’s contact. For group travel, share this card with each member so no one gets lost.
Frequently Asked Questions
The best time is from October to February, when the weather is cooler and drier, making it ideal for exploring the backwaters and town. Avoid the heavy monsoon months of June to August if you prefer less rain and easier walking.
Yes, houseboats are very senior-friendly with flat entry ramps, seated dining areas, and slow, gentle cruising. Book through a reputed tour operator or the Kerala Tourism office in Kottayam, and choose a single-bedroom houseboat for more space and a smoother ride.
You must try Kerala’s traditional sadya (a vegetarian feast on a banana leaf), appam with stew, and fresh karimeen (pearl spot fish). Most mid-range hotels like the Hotel Aiswarya or the KTDC Tamarind offer customised, less-spicy versions on request, so just ask while ordering.
Auto-rickshaws are plentiful and inexpensive for short hops, but for a full day, hire a pre-paid taxi or a car with a driver through your hotel or a local travel agency. For backwater villages, use the state-run boat services from the Kottayam boat jetty, which are comfortable and have covered seating.
Both temples have relatively flat approaches, but there are a few low steps at the entrances; the Thirunakkara temple also has a large open courtyard where you can rest. For those with mobility issues, it is best to visit early morning to avoid crowds and take a wheelchair if available at the temple office.
Suggested Itineraries
2 Days in Kottayam
Day 1
Begin your Kottayam journey with a relaxed morning exploring the town’s colonial-era churches and its famed literary heritage. After lunch, head to the serene Vembanad Lake for a peaceful backwater cruise, soaking in the lush greenery and village life along the shores. End the day with a quiet walk through the local market and a traditional Kerala dinner.
- Visit the St. Mary’s Orthodox Syrian Church (Cheriapally) and the larger St. Mary’s Church (Manarcaud), known for their ancient murals and unique Kerala-Syrian architecture.
- Explore the Kottayam Public Library and the nearby CMS College campus, the oldest college in Kerala, to appreciate the region’s high literacy and print culture.
- Take a late-afternoon motorboat ride on Vembanad Lake from the Kodimatha boat jetty, watching fishermen and coir-making villages.
Day 2
Spend your second day discovering Kottayam’s rural backbone—rubber and coir. Drive through the rolling rubber estates in the morning, stopping at a local processing unit to see how latex becomes sheets. After a traditional lunch, visit a coir-making village and a small printing press to understand the town’s twin industries. Wind down with a visit to the ancient Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple in the town center.
- Morning drive through the rubber plantations around Pala and Erattupetta, with a stop at a small estate to watch tapping and sheet-smoking (ask a farmer for a demo).
- Visit a family-run coir unit near Kumarakom, where coconut husks are spun into ropes and mats, and try your hand at simple weaving.
- Tour a small offset printing press in the town (many are open to visitors) to see how Kottayam earned its nickname as the "land of letters and latex."
- Walk around the Thirunakkara Sree Mahadeva Temple’s courtyard, known for its Kerala mural paintings and evening aarti.
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